Paris – Bonhams Cornette de Saint Cyr will hold its first dedicated Haute Couture sale - 1910-2010: One Hundred Years of Haute Couture on April 9, 2024. The 530-lot couturier sale will be held across two days, one live sale of 280-lots (April 9) and an online sale of 250-lots (April 5-15), featuring exquisite designs from various collections that evoke the epitome of fashion refinement.

1910-2010: One Hundred Years of Haute Couture will feature exceptional fashion from Schiaparelli, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Christian Dior, Marc Bohan, artistic director of Dior, Givenchy, Jeanne Lanvin, Madeleine Vionnet, Jean Patou, Gabrielle Chanel, and Yves Saint Laurent presented alongside designers Paco Rabanne, Emilo Pucci, Valentino, Gianni Versace, Alaïa, Thierry Mugler, Jean Charles de Castelbajac, Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto.

Hubert Felbacq, Head of Fashion and Bags at Bonhams Cornette de Saint Cyr in Paris commented: "Haute Couture encompasses an invaluable heritage in the world of French luxury with the creation of one-off pieces of exceptional craftsmanship designed by the atelier for private clients. Bonhams' first dedicated Haute Couture sale represents one hundred years of fashion from important Gabrielle Chanel, Madeleine Vionnet, Elsa Schiaparelli, and early Cristóbal Balenciaga to Marc Bohan's first and second collections for Christian Dior. Also heading to auction is an exceptional Yves Saint Laurent Johnny Hallyday stage outfit in addition to precious objects formerly owned by The Duchess of Windsor."

The 1920s, 1930s and early 1940s

The sale features exceptional Chanel designs created by the master herself Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel (1883-1971). The rare designs date from 1918-1937:

• A Gabrielle Chanel, long evening poncho in black muslin, collection Haute Couture, circa 1918/1920. Offered with an estimate of €2,000-3,000.
• A Gabrielle Chanel, long evening dress, collection Haute Couture, circa 1938. Offered with an estimate of €10,000-15,000.

The 'Queen of the bias cut' Madeleine Vionnet (1876-1975) features within the sale with exquisite designs dating from 1925 and 1938:

• A Madeleine Vionnet, long evening dress in gold lamé, collection Haute Couture, circa Summer 1924. Offered with an estimate of €4,000-6,000.
• A Madeleine Vionnet, embroidered short evening dress, collection Haute Couture, circa 1925. Offered with an estimate of €4,000-6,000.
• A Madeleine Vionnet, long evening dress in pink crepe, collection Haute Couture, circa Winter 1938. Offered with an estimate of €5,000-7,000.

Notable lots from the Italian-born Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) include three jackets and one necklace from the surrealist fashion designer. The rare designs date from 1938-1940, the time Schiaparelli was the designer to be seen in:

• A Schiaparelli evening jacket, collection Haute Couture, Spring 1939. Designed in brocade with floral decoration and aubergine velvet cuffs embroidered with constellations in silver and gold thread by Maison Lesage. Offered with an estimate of €6,000-8,000.
• A Schiaparelli jacket, collection Haute Couture, circa 1939/1940. The design features damask silk embroidered by Maison Lesage with gold leaf, sequins, and metal threads. Offered with an estimate of €800-1,000.
• A Schiaparelli jacket, collection Haute Couture, Winter 1940. The damask silk is embellished with beads of jet, sequins, and tubular embroidery by Maison Lesage. Offered with an estimate of €2,000-3,000.
• A Schiaparelli gold metal necklace from the Haute Couture 1938 Pagan collection. The surreal necklace is inspired by nature, designed as leaves decorated with red and green enamel and insects as if crawling on your skin. Offered with an estimate of €3,000-5,000.

The 1950s

Notable lots from influential couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895-1972) include two important dresses dating from 1956 and 1957, largely considered the golden age of Balenciaga. The dresses showcase the hallmarks that characterised Balenciaga's designs as 'the architect of haute couture' with his creation of new fabrics with sculptural qualities that allowed him to create extraordinary forms.

• A Cristóbal Balenciaga cocktail dress, collection Haute Couture circa Fall/Winter 1957. The beautiful dress from the passage number 126, has a balloon-skirt created by Balenciaga in 1950 and fabric, printed by Brossin de Méré featuring designs inspired by Renaissance decoration motifs. Offered with an estimate of €2,000-3,000.
• A Cristóbal Balenciaga black lace evening gown, collection Haute Couture circa Fall/Winter 1956. The dress has beautiful detailing including a bust worked in transparent lace, a belt held in place with a rose and a mantilla, inspired by traditional Spanish costumes, covering the head and shoulders. Offered with an estimate of €2,000-3,000.

The late 1950s and 1960s

Notable Christian Dior (1905-1957) lots includes a dress from his final collection in 1957, alongside three haute couture dresses from the 1st and 2nd collections of Marc Bohan (1926-2023), who was artistic director of Dior for over three decades (1961-1989) and known for his classic lines and understated elegance. The designs on offer date from 1961 and 1962:

• A Christian Dior strapless evening dress with bodice and full skirt design with tulle petticoats, collection Haute Couture, circa Fall/Winter 1957. The rare design in ivory silk satin with embroidered small white pearls on silver sequins is from Christian Dior's final collection and is offered with an estimate of €30,000-50,000.
• A Marc Bohan for Christian Dior evening dress and matching jacket, collection Haute Couture circa Spring/Summer1962. The design features a voluminous pink silk chiffon skirt with an intricately beaded and rhinestone embellished bodice. Offered with an estimate of €3,000-5,000.
• A Marc Bohan for Christian Dior blue silk chiffon dress and matching jacket, collection Haute Couture circa Spring/Summer 1961. The elegant design is from Marc Bohan's first haute couture collection entitled 'Slim Look', a streamlined take on the original "New Look" for Dior. Offered with an estimate of €1,500-2,000.
• A Marc Bohan for Christian Dior beige wool and ocelot fur dress with matching shawl and hat, collection Haute Couture circa Fall/Winter 1961. The effortlessly stylish design is offered with an estimate of €1,500-2,000.

The 1970s

The world of Haute Couture and rock and roll collide with a Yves Saint Laurent stage jacket created and worn by artist Johnny Hallyday for the series of concerts at the Palais des Sports in 1971. The design was specially ordered from Yves Saint Laurent for the artist:

• A spectacular Yves Saint Laurent, collection Haute Couture, for Johnny Hallyday stage jacket, circa Spring/Summer 1971. Designed in turquoise blue silk satin, entirely embroidered by François Lesage with multicoloured sequins decorated with arabesques on the front and a radiant sun on the back and a black galalith button enhanced with rhinestones. Offered with an estimate of €35,000-45,000.

One Hundred Years of Haute Couture includes objects formerly in the collection of Wallis, Duchess of Windsor (1896-1986). Known for her love of fashion, the Duchess of Windsor wore leading designers of the day from Schiaparelli, and Vionnet to Dior and Givenchy. The sale includes:

• 8 pairs of elegant custom-made fabric-covered evening shoes by Roger Vivier (1907-1998), circa 1965 and 1975. Known as the Fragonard and Fabergé of footwear, Vivier designed extravagant and decorated shoes. He created footwear for Christian Dior from 1953 to 1963 and is credited with designing the first stiletto heel in 1954. The evening shoes on offer have estimates for each pair from €300-600.

21 March 2024