Bonhams 24 September Fine Jewellery sale features an exceptional Art Deco enamel, gem-set and diamond 'Tutti Frutti' bracelet, designed in homage to India's Mughal dynasty. Designed by the jewellery house in 1929, it is an early example from an inspired period in Cartier's history, and is now offered at an estimate of £350,000-550,000.

In the early 1900s, esteemed French jewellery house, Cartier, took great inspiration from the vibrant colours and style of India. So enamoured were the jewellers, that a number of subsequent designs became sparkling tributes to the colour and culture of the subcontinent.

Moving away from the austere geometry of the Art Deco period, Cartier began to incorporate antique, Mughal gemstones and sinuous motifs into their contemporary designs, displaying vibrant juxtapositions of colour and texture.

The bracelet features a highly articulated geometric strap, bearing a distinctive vine pattern and characteristic coloured 'fruit', created with carefully carved emeralds and rubies, alongside black enamel contouring. It is highly unusual in its considered combination of colours and the clean lines of its graphic arrangement.

Jean Ghika, Bonhams head of jewellery in the UK and Europe, said: "Cartier first started experimenting with Indian-inspired jewels as early as 1901 when they made a necklace for Queen Alexandra. When Jacques Cartier visited the subcontinent in 1911, he was exposed to traditional Indian jewels that were rich in colour and set with carved gemstones.

"While Art Deco styling remained the key motif of the time, the latterly named "tutti frutti" jewellery pieces were a clear homage to the colour and vitality Jacques Cartier found on his ventures to India."

A Van Cleef & Arpels octagonal step-cut emerald and diamond ring, featuring a more traditional, minimalistic 1920s design, adds to the colourful gems featured in the sale. The rare 18-carat gem is set within a delicate single-cut diamond mount, and is estimated at £120,000-150,000.
Further highlights include a diamond 'Torsade' bangle, estimate £40,000-60,000, by Suzanne Belperron, one of the most celebrated female jewellery designers of the 20th century.

Belperron was one of the first designers to step away from the jewellery trends of the time. The three dimensional curves of many of Belperron's designs made her jewels stand out in comparison to the starker geometric motifs used in contemporary Art Deco jewellery. Made circa 1932, this bangle is a rare example of the designer's earliest independent work.

The sale takes place at Bonhams, 101 New Bond Street on 24 September. Bids can be placed online on Bonhams website https://www.bonhams.com, via telephone, in writing, and also in person on the day of the sale.

Bonhams handles and sells more jewellery lots each year than any other international house and has more dedicated jewellery auctions annually.

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