Jean Ghika
Global Head of Jewellery
Lot 94
ATTRIBUTED TO CARLO GIULIANO: EGYPTIAN REVIVAL TURQUOISE AND SEED PEARL FRINGE NECKLACE AND PENDENT EARRING SUITE, CIRCA 1870
7 December 2023, 11:00 GMT
London, New Bond StreetSold for £30,720 inc. premium
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Jennifer Tonkin
Co-Head of Department UK
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ATTRIBUTED TO CARLO GIULIANO: EGYPTIAN REVIVAL TURQUOISE AND SEED PEARL FRINGE NECKLACE AND PENDENT EARRING SUITE, CIRCA 1870
The collar composed of faceted batons of alternating lengths, each terminating with a turquoise sugarloaf cabochon and seed pearl accent, strung on spiga-linking concealed by a reeded rondel between each baton, the barrel-shaped clasp engraved with foliate detail, the articulating pendent earrings en suite, with surmounts of interlocking linking, mounted in gold, earrings with later post fittings, lengths: necklace 38.5cm, earrings 5.5cm, fitted case by Mr Streeter (Late), Hancock & Compy Limtd, Goldsmiths & Jewellers to the Royal Family, 37 Conduit Street and Bond Street, velvet exterior with tooled initials E.O.
Footnotes
See Munn, G., 'Castellani and Giuliano: Revivalist Jewellers of the Nineteenth Century', (Trefoil: 1984), ill.p.26 for a similar example.
This suite is a fine example of Neo-Egyptian jewellery by Giuliano. Interest in Egyptology was greatly enhanced in England when Miss Amelia Edwards founded the Egyptian Exploration Society, which subsequently brought a large quantity of Egyptian antiquities over to London. Neo-Egyptian jewels were made by Giuliano from the mid 1860's until his death in 1895, with notable examples featuring details such as faience and ancient Scarabs. The turquoise work and decorative devices are typical of motifs found in the designs of Pasquale Novissimo, who collaborated with the firm during the 1860's. This suite was retailed by Mr Streeter, who took over the firm of Hancock Burbock in 1868, dating this piece to 1868-1874 approximately, after which time Giuliano opened his own shop in Piccadilly.
Colour illustration: Design for a parure by Pasquale Novissimo, watercolour on card, as illustrated in Munn, G., 'Castellani and Giuliano: Revivalist Jewellers of the Nineteenth Century', (Trefoil: 1984), ill.p.25.